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The Spanish word for tasting is "cata", and The Spanish Wine Page has had the good fortune to organize its "catas" with Abraham Garcia, well known wine expert who is also chef and owner of one of Madrid's finest restaurants, Viridiana. A second wine specialist, Antonio Roales, Vidriana's former maitre/sommelier has helped evaluate some of these wines "Made in Spain":
"Catas" with Abraham
The idea behind these tasting sessions is to add more scope to these pages, as an addition to my personal opinions expressed in the Wines to Try page. The wines are my own selection, and the "catas" take place at Viridiana. We're now well into the second year, with 80 or so wines tasted, and I trust my translation of the tasting terminology from Spanish to English is acceptable.(Your comments are always welcome - Jens Riis)
Wines Tasted: 8 Jan 2001
Pérgolas 1996, [Red] D.O. Valdepeñas (Navarro-López)
Solarce 1997, [Red] D.O. Rioja (Alicia Rojas)
Fino P.G.,[Fino] D.O. Montilla-Moriles (Aragón y Cía.)
Oro de Castilla 1998, [White] D.O. Rueda (Hnos del Villar)
Viña Recreo 1998,[Red] D.O. La Mancha (Coop San Isidro)
Amant 1998, [Red] D.O. Toro (Bodegas Toresanas)
Barranç del Closos 1997, [red] D.O. Priorat (Mas Igneus)
Ladairo 1998, [White] D.O. Monterrei (Ladairo)
Tiriñuelo 1998,[Red] Sierra de Salamanca (San Esteban)
Celler Cecilio Negre 1996, [Red] D.O. Priorat (Celler Cecilio)
Pacorrito, [Amontillado] D.O. Montilla-Moriles (Aragón y Cía.)
Quinta de Couselo 1997, [White] D.O. Rías Baixas (Quinta de Couselo)
Barón de Oña Reserva 1994,[Red] DOC Rioja (Torre de Oña)
Benengeli Crianza 1995, [Red] D.O. La Mancha (Enomar)
Gran Noval 1997, [Red] D.O. Jumilla (San Isidro)
Tiriñuelo 1997,[Red] Sierra de Salamanca (San Estéban)
Blasón de Costaján 1997, [Red] D.O. Ribera del Duero (Herederos de Doroteo San Juan)
Casar de Santa Inés 1995, [Red] D.O Bierzo (Finca El Toleiro)
Gran Cardel '97, [White] D.O. Rueda (Félix Lorenzo Cachazo)
Gran Barquero Fino,[Fino] D.O. Montilla-Moriles (Pérez Barquero)
Gran Barquero Oloroso, [Oloroso] D.O. Montilla-Moriles (Pérez Barquero)
Señorío Amezola Reserva '93, [Red] D.O.C Rioja (Amezola de la Mora)
Guitian Godello 1996, [White] D.O. Valdeorras (La Tapada)
Viña Flores '96, [Red] D.O. Tacoronte-Acentejo (Flores)
Gramona Gran Reserva (Dulce), [Cava] D.O. Cava (Cavas Gramona)
Carrasviñas 1996, [White] D.O. Rueda (Félix Lorenzo Cachazo)
Marina, [Red] Table wine (Berberana)
Pagos de Quintana Crianza '94, [Red]
DO Ribera del Duero (Bodegas del Campo)Especial Syrah-Merlot '94, [Red]
D.O. Priorato (Mas Martinet)Roura Sauvignon Blanc 1996, [White] D.O. Alella (Roura)
Gramona Pinot Noir 1996, [Rosé] D.O.Penedès (Cavas Gramona)
Iuvene 1996, [Red] D.O.C. Rioja (Herencia Lasanta)
Marqués de Velilla '94, [Red] D.O. Ribera del Duero (Grandes Bodegas)
Roura Sauvignon Blanc 1996, [White] D.O. Alella (Roura)
Gramona Pinot Noir 1996, [Rosé] D.O.Penedès (Cavas Gramona)
Iuvene 1996, [Red] D.O.C. Rioja (Herencia Lasanta)
Marqués de Velilla '94, [Red] D.O. Ribera del Duero (Grandes Bodegas)
Artadi 1996, [Red] D.O.C. Rioja (Cosecheros Alaveses)
Valdemar 1996, [Red] D.O.C. Rioja (Martínez Bujanda)
Milflores 1996, [Red] D.O.C. Rioja (Bodegas Palacio)
Tempranillo 1996, [Red] D.O. Somontano (Viñas del Vero)
Carchelo 1996, [Red] D.O. Jumilla (Viñedos Agapito Rico)
Guelbenzu "Evo" 1993, [Red] D.O. Navarra (Bodegas Guelbenzu)
René Barbier Cabernet Sauvignon 1990, [Red] D.O. Penedès (René Barbier)
Val de Vos Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 1991, [Red] D.O. Somontano (Viñas del Vero)
Raimat Cabernet Sauvignon 1991, [Red]
D.O. Costers del Segre (Raimat)Casa Gualda Cencibel 1995, [Red] D.O. La Mancha (Ntra Sra de la Cabeza)
Casa Gualda Crianza 1994, [Red] D.O. La Mancha (Ntra Sra de la Cabeza)
Casa Gualda Crianza 1993, [Red] D.O. La Mancha (Ntra Sra de la Cabeza)
Freixenet Vintage 1991, Brut Nature, [Cava] D.O. Cava (Freixenet)
Dos Lustros Brut Nature, [Cava] D.O. Cava (Castellblanch)
Freixenet Reserva Real, [Cava] D.O. Cava (Freixenet)
Brut Reserva Heredad, [Cava] D.O. Cava (Segura Viudas)
Pérgolas 1996
Valdepeñas is a major volume producer of [generally] cost-effective wines. Navarro-López, a small family operation has reworked their product line in recent years and achieved remarkable sucess, especially in the export market.Bright medium-red color. Aromas are clean, berry/cherry fruit driven with a gentle touch of oak. The palate's light and refreshing, at the same time shows nice fruit, balance and good length.
A really nice, drinkable fruit-dominated wine which will go well with on its own or with food. Abraham was pleasantly surprised and found it to be, "Clean and well put together, with good persistence. A remarkable value".
Solarce 1997
Longtime Rioja grower Alicia Rojas has begun bottling her own barrel aged Rioja reds in the last few years. This particular wine suffered from an interesting "difference of opinion" during the tasting. I rather liked it's combination classic/modern style, Abraham found it too oaky.Bright medium dark cherry/garnet color. A mix of oak and primary fruit on the nose: plums/ripe cherries and spicy/vanilla oak with a touch of cocoanut and clove. The palate shows the same elements with the oak more dominant and slightly astringent on the finish
Again, while I found it fresh and most enjoyable; Abraham wasn't all that impressed, "Too much oak and dry on the finish".
Fino P.G.
Montilla-Moriles could probably be defined as "the other sherry region". Unfortunately they can't use that descriptor as "sherry" can only be produced in the DO Jerez region. Nonetheless, the region produces some excellent "finos" and "amontillados", as well as some superb sweet wines made from the Pedro Ximénez grape.Pale golden straw color, bright and clean. Well developed, complex aromas show hazlenuts and almonds, along with a nice mix of fresh straw, a touch of yeast and some flowers and a hint petrol/beeswax. Smooth and inviting on the palate, repeating the nutty, floral components of the nose.
Again, Abraham was pleasantly surprised, "The nose is clearly typical of the region, and shows an immense range of wonderful nutty components. Very smooth with a pleasantly bitterish finish. A wine to be savored and enjoyed".
It's been much too long since our last outing, summer has come and gone and we're back with a nice Verdejo white from Rueda and three useful reds from around the country.
Oro de Castilla 1998
Rueda in north central Spain is home to some of the country's top whites. Oro de Castilla (Castillian Gold) is 100% Verdejo, Rueda's primary grape variety. The tough terrain and extreme climate make for wines with character and style and the perfect companion to fish or fowl.Golden straw color, bright and clean. Nice persistent aromas of pear, mango and orange peel and grassy varietal tones. Fresh palate follows the nose with refreshing acidity and a long, pleasant bitterish finish.
An excellent wine and a good reflection of the region and variety. Antonio describes it as "fresh, persistent and surprisingly long". Abraham called it "Excellent", appreciating the "persistent, yet delicate finish which can be harsh at times with Verdejo wines".
Viña Recreo 1998
La Mancha wines just seem to get better and better while maintaining attractive prices. This young 100% Cencibel (Tempranillo) unoaked red is loaded with fruit and a pleasure to drink.Bright cherry red color with good depth. Lively ripe fruit aromas show bramble fruit and a hint of yeasty youth. Rich fruit filled palate with moderate acidity which maintains a surprising freshness.
All were pleasantly surprised by this $2.50 beauty. Abraham enjoyed the fruity freshness, and Antonio rates it "an excellent value".
Amant 1998
It seems Toro's become one of the "in" regions of late. The region's traditionally extra heavy wines have been tempered by modern winemaking technology, but retain the local depth an character. 100% Tinto de Toro (Tempranillo), no oak.Very dark cherry red color with purple tints. Potent, concentrated nose seems dusty and barnyardy at first, but this quickly gives way to well defined ripe red berry fruit. The palate's thick and full bodied, maybe a shade on the "hot" side.
Antonio describes it as "Balanced, very dry and a little high in alcohol. It should improve with a year of cellaring". For Abraham, "The color is magnificent. The palate, while somewhat tannic, is very representative of the style".
Barranç des Closos
Another Spanish wine region on the move is DO Priorat near Tarragona on the Mediterranean, where old vines Garnacha wines like L'Ermita and Clos Mogador have gotten the very best ratings. Barranç is an inexpensive Priorat ($5-6) of 57% Garnacha (Grenache), 39.5% Cariñena (Carignan) and 3.5% Cabernet Sauvignon with 3 months of barrel ageing.Deep dark garnet red color. A bit closed at first but with a great spicy, floral nose. Palate has depth, fruit and oak, but seems somewhat dry and hard with a vaguely medicinal background.
Perhaps a wine in need of cellaring or in a "dumb" phase - there was clearly a difference of opinion among the tasters. Antonio found it closed and disjointed, but Abraham thorughly enjoyed the "Interesting nose with a touch of violets.
We're back after a lengthy delay. This session was another mixed bag which included a nice Godello white from the Monterrei region in northwest Spain, a non-DO young red from Salamanca, a DO Priorat red and an excellent amontillado from the DO Montilla-Moriles region.
Ladairo 1998
The recently established DO Monterrei region is a relatively small denomination in the province of Orense in northwest Spain offering some interesting whites and a few unoaked reds. Ladairo is an interesting and tasty example of the region's Godello grape whites.Bright yellow-green color. Nice aromas of tropical fruits with citrus elements . Pleasant, refreshing palate showing pineapple & grapefruit. Moderate acidity with a lemony finish.
Appreciated by one and all. Antonio found it with pleasant aromas, light but refreshing. Abraham enjoyed the complex nose and fruity body, noting a certain lack of acidity.
Tiriñuelo 1998
From a non-DO region and made primarily from the local Rufete grape, this year's model includes a bit of Tempranillo as well. While the 1997 version caused a real stir, the '98 seems to be more "commercial", nice enough but with less power, fruit and character.Great red/purple color with bluish tints. Ample nose showing good blackberry and raspberry fruit with yeasty elements. Pleasant but dryish palate follows nose with reduced blackberry fruit, a dusty/mineral touch followed by a relatively simple finish.
Interesting stuff. Not a bad wine for the money, but somewhat disappointing when compared to the '97 "fruit bomb".
Celler Cecilio 1996
These days, it's not easy to "discover" a Priorat wine which doesn't cost a fortune, and Celler Cecilio's a pleasant surprise. The $10 price tag makes it a reasonably priced Priorat, but there were some interesting differences of opinion among the tasters.Medium dark (for a Priorat) Cherry red color. Pleasant, warm cherry-berry aromas. Rich, complex but somewhat alcoholic palate with a hint of oxidation which blew off in a few minutes.
Interesting divergence among the tasters. Abraham was impressed with its nose and personality - but admits it needs more time in the bottle. Antonio found it too alcoholic, underextracted and somehow lacking consistency. The jury's still out. Perhaps it needs some cellaring to reach its full potential.
Pacorrito Amontillado
Somehow, the Montilla-Moriles region has not achieved much recognition outside Andalucia and Spain. It is, however, a key producer of some superb Pedro Ximénez sweet wines as well as many quality "sherry-style" finos, amontillados and olorosos. Made from 100% Pedro Ximénez grapes and 17% natural alcohol content, "Pacorrito" is a cost effective delight for sherry lovers.Beautiful crisp, bright copper/amber color. Complex nose showing dry almonds & hazlenuts plus something that brings back a bakery making cakes and sweet rolls. Light, extremely dry palate with a superb, bitterish finish that goes on and on.
Great stuff! The superb color, aroma, dry palate and somewhat bitter finish were enjoyed by all. Nice aperitif when cooled slightly before serving to tame the potent 17% alcohol "heat".
Once again, it's been a while since we've been able to organize a tasting session with Abraham and Antonio. It seems our busy schedules have made it difficult to find a free moment, so this particular session's limited to three interesting wines from three distinct regions: a highly rated "Albariño" white wine from DO Rías Baixas, a classic DOC Rioja "reserva" with a brand new look & feel, and an attractively priced, barrel aged red from DO La Mancha.
Quinta de Couselo 1997
Quinta de Couselo has been well rated in the local press, and it's not hard to discover why. Made by a small scale producer from El Rosal in the heart of the Rías Baixas region, this is an excellent example of a first rate "Albariño". Great with shellfish!Great, brilliant golden straw color. Floral, herbal aromas with ripe appley fruit, and hints of anise. Fresh, thick fruity palate with the merest hint of pleasant carbonic and firm acidity.
A superb wine. In Abraham's words, "Great acidity. Mouthfilling, rich and fresh. Seductive".
Barón de Oña Reserva 1994
The Torre de Oña winery was purchased by La Rioja Alta, SA (makers of Viña Ardanza and others) back in early 1995 - and '94 Barón de Oña is the first vintage "built" under this new management. This is truly a new wine. Unlike the earlier Oñas, which tended to be a bit lean and often old-woody, this is a rich, new-generation Rioja with great power and depth. Not to be missed!Very deep, dark bing cherry color. Ripe berry fruit aromas with clean (mostly new) spicy vanilla wood. Rich, mouthfilling fruit palate. Great structure and balance.
Accustomed to earlier vintages, this wine was genuinely pleasant surprise for Antonio and Abraham, who comments, "One of the modern Riojas. Perfect color. Structured. Balanced. Surprising and magnificent".
Benengeli Crianza 1995
This was a day for pleasant surprises. A great value and a delight to drink, Benengeli is clearly a good example of a modern day La Mancha barrel aged "crianza". A full bodied red, just right for roasts and steaks. A fun wine that develops and changes in your glass. Ready to drink now.Good medium dark cherry red color. Fragrant, fresh aromas mature fruit with toasty, almost buttery elements. A bit of reduction shows initially on the palate, but this quickly disappears to leave ripe, rasiney fruit with toasty, coffee and vanilla tones. Pleasant acidic structure.
Antonio comments, "Very mature fruit. Pleasant toasty oak. Evolves noticably in your glass". Abraham says, "Pleasant acidity [unusual for La Mancha]. Fragrant, fresh, almost feminine. Truly excellent".
It's been a while since we've been able to get together to have a go at some new and different wines. Today's selection includes three young (1997 vintage) reds from various regions, and a youngish 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon from El Bierzo in northwest Spain.
It's said that many young wines are at their peak before the really hot weather begins. At that point in time (in theory at least), the wine's no longer "green" and it's fully evolved and at its best. The real heat's been on for only a couple of weeks, so it doesn't look like we're that far off the mark.
Gran Noval 1997
The Jumilla region is well known for heady, potent reds made from Monastrell grapes (known as Mourvèdre in France). In recent years, Jumilla's winemakers have also begun to produce more refined (but still full-bodied) wines which have been a pleasant surprise. Unfortunately, Gran Noval is neither one nor the other, and was certainly the day's letdown.Very thin on color for Monastrell. Somewhat artificial yeasty aromas. Chewing gum fruitish flavors. Not much more to add.
Tiriñuelo 1997
This wine's been causing quite a stir in wine circles here in Spain, and it's easy to see why. An inexpensive wine made from the relatively unknown Rufete grape in the non-DO Sierra de Salamanca region, and one of my personal favorites.Great cherry color, medium depth. Well formed cherry berry fruit aromas. A real mouthful of fresh, ripe fruit with nicely balanced acidity.
A real find. Abraham comments, "Great color. Good structure. Well balanced acidity. Very good indeed." Antonio says, "Beautiful color. A palate not unlike a young Ribera del Duero. Great value."
Blasón de Costaján 1997
Here's a good young Ribera del Duero "cosecha" (young wine), with a moderate price tag. While it may need a bit of bottle ageing to fully develop, this wine shows plenty of character and hints of future complexity.Deep, dark inky purple color. Aromas a bit closed showing quality fruit and a bit of bakery/bread dough, evolving pleasantly as it warms in the glass. Full bodied, slightly astringent palate, balanced acidity.
A real hit. Abraham suspects it needs about a year of cellaring to smooth out and fully develop those "hints of complexity". Antonio observes, "Elegant aromas and great fruit-acid balance".
Casar de Santa Inés 1997
Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in the DO Bierzo region of Northwest Spain. While not up to the level of Tiriñuelo or Blasón de Costaján, a reasonable wine, medium-body and not a bad value.Medium cherry red color. Uncomplicated, light pruny varietal aromas. Simple, fresh and a far from lengthy palate.
The general opinion is the vines are still too young, and the wine lacks concentration. Abraham describes it as, "Clean and fresh palate. Very short."
The tasting session did take place on 18 March, but the data was not published until 11 May. Once again, a mixed bag of wine styles: a recently bottled young Rueda white, two interesting "Montillas" (sherry-style wines from the province of Córdoba), and a classic Rioja red reserva.
As usual, the wines were tasted in a (more or less) logical order - white, Montillas, and finally the Rioja reserva. The fortified Montillas are often difficult to combine with other wines, but have unique qualities which wine lovers everywhere have come to enjoy.
Gran Cardel 1997
This was our first opportunity to try the new Rueda crop or '97s - the young Ruedas are typically put on the market in the February-April timeframe. Made from 100% Verdejo grapes, this "Rueda Superior" was the most appreciated of the four wines tested.Golden straw color with greenish tints. Very potent, fruity nose of tropical fruits - pineapple and mango, with a bit of apple. Somewhat less potent on the palate, fresh, fruity with the same tropical fruits clearly in evidence with a slightly bitterish finish. An enjoyable wine for all - Antonio likes the powerful tropical fruit nose and the youthful freshness; Abraham calls it "magnificent."
Gran Barquero Fino
Typically made from 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes, "Montillas" offer an interesting alternative to sherry. While they cannot legally be called sherry, these wines are made by the same process, and are categorized in the same manner: fino, oloroso, amontillado, etc.Pale color with golden tints. Pleasant aromas of almonds, hazlenuts and "flor", typical of finos. Simple, pleasant taste - slightly "warn" with noticable alcohol and a somewhat bitter finish. A competent fino which met with mixed reviews, Abraham liked the nutty nose, but the overall impression was summed up as "discrete".
Gran Barquero Oloroso
After an initial ageing under "flor" - the layer of mold that seals out the air and produces the nutty "sherry" taste, olorosos are aged in a manner similar to normal barrel aged wines. "Oloroso" means full of aromas in Spanish.. 100% Pedro Ximánez grapes.Beautiful mahogany color with coppery metallic tints. When first opened, a varnishy sort of nose, improving and developing nutty-bakery aromas after a few minutes. A similar result on the palate, unpleasant alcoholic and chemical effects are replaced by complex nutty, bitterish elements typical in olorosos. Needs to breathe a bit to chase away the initial aromas. Here again opinions were divided, the main objection being the harsh, varnishy elements which did in fact disappear over time.
Señorío Amezola Reserva 1993
For many Rioja producers, 1993 was an off year, but unlike many others, Amezola decided to make a full "reserva" wine. A classic Rioja reserva red from a small producer.Cherry red color, a bit thin with hints of brick. Typical Rioja aromas of old wood and spicy-berry fruit. Relatively light and easy on the palate. Ready to drink and showing clear signs of evolution: leather, tobacco, etc. A pleasant, but discrete wine for the tasters, typical Rioja but without any really outstanding features.
This "holiday" tasting session was arranged with a somewhat different slant. Three wines, white, red and dessert, were selected with the idea of tasting as usual, and defining the kind of dishes that would combine to perfection with this progression of wines.
The first course wine - Guitiana 100% Godello white from the northwestern Valdeorras region has won wide recognition as a top Spanish white; while the main course red - Viña Flores from Tenerife in the Canary Islands, and Gramona's sweet (dulce) Cava were a new experience. The recommended fare was: a shellfish starter, perfect with the excellent Guitiana; a grilled sea bass with a pungent "salmorejo" sauce and new potatoes to go with the earthy Canary Island red; and marzipan or baked apple for the superb sweet Cava from Gramona.
Guitian Godello 1996
Made from the local Godello grape, Guitian shows a pale straw color with metallic tints. Potent aromas of apple and mangos. Fresh, tasty and "long" on the palate with good acidity and no signs at all of oxidation.Certainly the top wine of the session. Antonio describes it as, "Big, tasty and fruity with that acid balance that invites you to drink more." For Abraham, "Perfect nose, and (despite having been bottled some time ago), shows no signs of oxidation".
Viña Flores '96
Made from grape varieties native to the Canaries - Listan Negro, Negramoll, and a touch of Listan Blanco, Viña Flores is not easy to find outside the islands. Bright clean cherry red color, not too deep. Medium strength aromas, with spicy notes and fruit that leans toward Cabernet Franc or Mencia. Light and pleasant palate, with the burnt volcanic tones so typical of the Canary reds.Very much in line with the better Canary Island reds, this is a pleasant, but not spectacular medium-bodied red. Abraham appreciated the color and the volcanic palate, while Antonio enjoyed the spicy nose.
Gramona Gran Reserva (Dulce)
None of the group is particularly fond of sweet bubblies, but the Gramona was a genuine (and truly pleasant) surprise. Golden straw color with very fine bubbles. Very complex in the nose, showing grapey fruit, anise and honey tones. Delightfully complex palate that repeats the nose, and is not at all sticky, despite a high sugar content.Abraham found the anise elements to be "a bit suspicious", but like the rest found it to be "A refernce point for sweet bubblies". Antonio comments, "The sugar is hardly noticeable, and beautifully integrated with the other elements".
While the tasting actually took place in July, the vacation period has delayed the "printing" of the results. This was another "mixed bag" where variety was the main selection criterion: a 100% native varietal white, an inexpensive table wine ($2), a "typical" Ribera del Duero and an "experimental wine" from Priorato.
Carrasviñas 1996
The Félix Lorenzo Cachazo winery is a small but modern Rueda producer with a useful selection of DO Rueda whites as well as non-DO table wines. This month's selection is a 100% Verdejo "Rueda Superior" - an excellent companion for fish and shellfish.Pale straw color, clean and crisp. Good fruity varietal aromas with a touch of anise. Dry palate, good acidity with citric tones, slightly thick on the tongue.
There's no doubt that this is a good representative of the fine white wines of Rueda, but there were mixed opinions among the tasters. For Antonio it's "Pleasant aromas. Refreshing acidity. Uncomplicated but enjoyable." Abraham comments, "Good varietal aromas. Surprisingly good acidity (for Verdejo). A bit heavy on the palate, and lacks elegance."
Marina
While it may be a bit out of place in this sort of tasting session, a low priced table wine like Marina shows the progress made by the Spanish wine industry in recent years, where the use of modern technology makes acceptable even the most modest wines. This wine in fact won a Gold Medal at a blind tasting in Madrid last year. A medium bodied red that would go well with dishes like spaghetti and meatballs or meatloaf.Ruby red color, medium density. Pleasant, but short lived, aromas with honey-like overtones. Dry with good acidity, a bit astringent on the palate.
We didn't expect rave reviews - and weren't disappointed. Well made and quite drinkable, the wine is an excellent value - but on the harsh side and without real character.
Pagos de Quintana Crianza '94
The 1994 Ribera del Duero harvest is rated among the region's very best, so there was additional interest in this particular wine from this small, local producer. A medium bodied red, probably best with roasts and steaks.Not typical Ribera del Duero colors, but clean and bright. Medium strength varietal aromas with a dusty element. Somewhat out of balance on the palate - overly astringent and acidic, with a slightly dusty finish.
Here again, opinions were mixed. The wine's well made, but it's out of balance and the dusty notes on nose and palate are very much out of place in an aged Ribera del Duero.
Especial Syrah-Merlot '94
The Priorat region has become in recent years a hotbed of quality wine production. Made by a small winery known for its quality Garnacha-based wines like the excellent Martinet Bru and Clos Martinet, this experimental mix of Syrah and Merlot looked to be an intrigueing prospect. Medium bodied and an apt companion for aged cheese or beef.Beautiful bright garnet-red color of medium density. Penetrating, perfumed varietal aromas with a touch of wood. Pleasant, but brief on the palate with a somewhat agressive astringency at the finish.
Abraham notes, "A strange, different wine where the Bordeaux grape (Merlot) is more noticable than the Burgundy (Syrah)." Antonio comments, "Its brevity is likely due to the youth of the varietal vines". An interesting wine which likely needs some bottle ageing to smooth out the astringent edge.
Once again, the wine selection for this month's tasting session is a mixed bag: the 1996 version of an Albariño we tested last year, a non-DO "vino de la tierra", a small production young Rioja and an oak aged reserva from one of the many small family run "bodegas" in the Ribera del Duero region.
Lagar de Cervera 1996
Lagar de Fornelos has been making quality Albariño wines for many years. This fragrant, fruity wine makes a nice aperitif, and goes well with most seafood and fish dishes. Good, but perhaps not quite as good as the 1995 we tried last year.Typical pale straw-color with greenish, slightly metalic tints. Fragrant varietal aromas of apple and pear. A minimal, pleasant petulance on the palate, tasty and fruity with good acididy.
Initially, the wine was a little too cold and "underpowered" in the aroma department. Once it warmed up a bit, things improved noticeably. Antonio found, "a touch of green apples, light on the palate balanced by good acidity." For Abraham, "Good aromas typical of variety and the terrain. Lasting, pleasant petulance."
Onice 1996
This is a typical Rioja Alavesa young red wine - AKA "vino de cosechero", made by the carbonic maceration process, where whole grapes ferment in an enclosed CO2 atmosphere. Fruity and with a hint of fizz, these wines combine well many foods: pasta, veal, lamb, pork and fowl to name a few.Deep red-purple color that shows the wine's young age. Potent, lasting aromas of grapes, and the heady yeasty overtones so typical in this type of wine. Slightly astringent and fruity taste with the merest hint of youthful fizziness.
All of us noted the pleasant, potent aromas so typical of this type of wine, but found it good but perhaps a bit short on fruit. Antonio, "You can detect the greenish aromas of the stems, which also show up as astringent notes on the palate." For Abraham, "Very representative of the region. Good, lasting nose. Acceptable acidity, lacking in extracts and glycerine."
Manuel Manzaneque Finca Elez '94
Bottled under the semi-official label "vinos de la tierra", this is a full bodied red wine made from Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Produced in Sierra de Alcaraz in the western part of the province of Albacete where the altitude (1,000 meters), soils and climate have produced quality "noble" grapes in recent years.Dark cherry red color of medium depth. Clear, persistent aromas of the prime grape variety, Cabernet, showing cherry-plum fruit and a pleasant spicy background. Mouthfilling and tasty with ample tannins and good, ripe red fruit.
Abraham comments, "Cabernet is clearly the dominant variety. Much improved over earlier the '93, probably due to increasing maturity of the vines. Easy to drink and will improve over the next few years." Antonio says, "Well made and with style. A Manchego wine with a great future."
Pagos de Quintana Reserva '92
The Bodegas del Campo winery is a small family run affair in the province of Burgos, not far from Aranda del Duero. Difficult to find outside the region, but certainly representative of the region's many small producers. A well developed wine, good for heavier, flavorful dishes like stews, red meat or mature cheeses.Cherry red color, tending toward brick red, not as deeply colored as most wines form the area. Well developed aromas of cherry, rasberry fruit and a gentle oak background. Pleasant taste. Medium bodied, with oaky, leathery tones more typical of somewhat older vintage.
Abraham found it, "Surprisingly developed for it's young age. Delicate and ready to drink now." Antonio comments, "A bit light in color and somewhat closed aromas. Improves on the palate where oak ageing aromas begin to show."
This month's selection is certainly representative of the tremendous variety available in Spain. Four wines from four different regions: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Alella and Penedès - incorporating 3 varietal wines from the '96 harvest: white, rosé and red, plus an oak aged red a vintage "crianza" red.
Roura Sauvignon Blanc 1996
Roura is a small, quality producer in the DO Alella region which sits on the Mediterranean coast, just north of Barcelona. Their Sauvignon Blanc proved to be an excellent wine, very much in the varietal character - crisp, dry and just the thing for fish or shellfish.Very pale, almost transparent color (Abraham describes it as, "dressed in nudist garb"). Potent, lasting aromas of tropical fruits, as well as grapefruit with floral notes. Dry and fresh on the palate, pleasantly acidic and lasting.
A fine wine indeed. Abraham describes it as, "Long on aroma. Pleasantly dry. Magnificent acidity for this grape variety." Antonio, "Intense varietal aromas. Good acidity, refreshing."
Gramona Pinot Noir 1996
The Gramona winery is primarily a cava producer; and in the future, the majority of these Pinot Noir grapes will end up as bubbly. This is an fine rosé - but don't over chill. As we found out the aromas and flavor really came out as it warmed up.Beautiful, deep rasberry red color. Intrigueing, but subtle aromas of red currants and herbal notes. Good acidity, pleasant and easy on the palate. Rather short finish, but improving as it warms in the glass.
Antonio says, "Beautiful color. Pleasant but limited aromas. Light palate."; while Abraham say, "Great color - like a cherry orchard at picking time. Very good."
Iuvene 1996
Update The young "nouveau-style" Iuvene has been well received by the experts. The bottle selected for the original tasting was clearly an "off" bottle - aromas in abundance but lacking in taste, so a second sample was tested at the recent "Feria Gourmet" wine & food show.
Good deep dark red color, having lost a bit of the characteristic violet edge. Good, medium strength aromas of yeast, fruit and CO2 from the traditional maceration process. Thick rich and fruity on the palate, the wine has lost the tinge of fizz of recently bottled young reds, but maintains its youthful freshness and taste.
An excellent example of a young Rioja red, and ready to drink right now.
Marqués de Velilla '94
The only non-1996 wine of the session, Marqués de Velilla proved to be a first rate "crianza" from the excellent Ribera del Duero vintage of '94. Full bodied and a good companion to the more flavorful types of food: stews, casseroles, meat and roasts.Good, medium depth cherry-garnet color. Powerful aromas, initially showing oak and spice, followed by plenty of red/black berry fruit. Full bodied, mouthfilling taste. Good fruit-acid-tannic balance. Long finish.
Certainly a wine to recommend. Abraham describes it as, "Meaty, balsamic, long and very well put together. Excellent." Antonio found it, "Pleasant on the palate, persistent with that personality that comes from the oak and a good balance between fruit and acidity."
Young Spanish reds Tasted 5 Feb 1997
It's still a bit early, but now's the time of year when the new young-style wines begin to become available. In this particular session, we picked five 1996 reds: 3 "classics" from Rioja, and one each from the Somontano and Jumilla regions. These are wines made (like the more publicised "Beaujolais Nouveau") to be drunk young and fresh. For more information on this type of wine, check out the young Spanish reds article.
Artadi 1996
Artadi has established itself as a classic, prize winning young Rioja, but this year's version though drinkable enough, was a bit of a disappointment when compared to earlier efforts.Made from Tempranillo grapes. Good bright red color with violet edges, but lacking the powerful depth of previous vintages. Good fruit and floral tones in nose and palate, but lacking force and that "carbonic" zing.
All of us agreed with Abraham's assesment, "Lighter in color and body than earlier versions. No carbonic. Much more commecial than before. Disappointing."
Valdemar 1996
Probably the best of the lot. Young, potent, complex, and showing the elements of a "cosechero" young Rioja red.Made from Tempranillo. Good deep red with purple tones. Potent fruit with hints of yeast and flowers in the nose. Good acidity, body and fruity complexity on the palate.
Antonio describes it as, "Light on the palate, pleasant and youthfully astringent." For Abraham it's, "Complex on nose and palate. Very interesting!"
Milflores 1996
A light, easy drinking wine; certainly not a typical young Rioja red. An attractive presentation, and well made; but somewhat disappointing.Clean red color, a bit too transparent. Fruity yeasty nose, light on the palate.
As far as Abraham is concerned, "Disappointingly light. Lacking substance." Antonio wasn't quite so critical, noting that the wine's lightness made for easy drinking.
Tempranillo 1996
Traditionally, young Spanish reds come from Rioja and are put on the market starting in February or so. The Viñas del Vero Tempranillo 1996 comes from the Somantano area, and was "published" in December.Good deep reddish-purple color. Clean, potent aromas of red fruit and yeasty tones. Easy on the palate, full flavored, slightly astringent and good length.
Certainly one of the day's better wines. Abraham notes, "Potent on the palate, and excellent color. Lots of fruit, but needs rounding out - logical due to such a short stay in the bottle."
Carchelo 1996
The Jumilla region lies to the south, near the Mediterranean. The warmer climate, and the grape variety have produced a surprisingly well developed wine.Made from Monastrell grapes. Good red color, but with none of the violet tones of youth. Warm, developed aromas of ripe red fruit. Rich and full bodied, complex palate.
This 1996 didn't look or act like a young wine. Just the same, we all found it to be tasty, and a good value as well.
Spanish Cabs Tasted 19 July 1996
Cabernet Sauvignon vines were introduced in Spain in the Penedès and other regions some time ago. Differing climatic conditions as well as distinct winemaking techniques have produced excellent results using the this noble grape from Bordeaux. This is the first time we've focussed on Spanish Cabs, and one of the most interesting results is that while each of the four wines tasted clearly shows the varietal's basic characteristics, they are totally distinct wines. The wines chosen for today's session are from four different producers, from different Denominations: Navarra, Penedès, Somontano and Costers del Segre.
Guelbenzu "Evo" 1993
EVO, the youngest of the wines tasted, showed its youth - probably needing more bottle ageing to compare with some superb earlier vintages. A wine which looks good and shows some promise, but at this stage is very closed in taste and aroma.Made from 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Tempranillo and 7% Merlot. Color beautifully deep and dark. Aromas of low intensity show the main varietal characteristics of prunes and pepper. The taste is youthfully astringent and not very strong with red berry fruit, prunes and a touch of green peppercorn spice.
Perhaps a bit of a disappointment, after some good critical reviews and the excellent results of the Guelbenzu EVO Cabs in previous vintages. '93 is very young for a Cab, and both Abraham and Antonio agree that we'll need to wait a year or two for things to come together.
René Barbier Cabernet Sauvignon 1990
At six, this is the oldest of today's samples. Despite its relative youth, the René Barbier is well developed and ready to drink. Smooth and elegant, this will go well with almost any meat dish or even pasta.Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Good color, deep cherry red with just a hint of brick around the edges. Aromas of medium intensity show red berry and prunes with a touch of spice. The taste is smooth, easy on the palate with mature fruit flavors of berry and prune.
A very pleasant wine indeed. Surprisingly well developed for its age. Abraham summed things up nicely: "Clean, fresh with elegant touches, subtly spiced. Easy and ready to drink."
Val de Vos Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 1991
The only wine of the four to meet "reserva" specs, Val de Vos was clearly one of the top wines in today's tasting session. A properly aged Cab with lots of body and plenty of cellar life left, this will go well with "solid" dishes - roasts, steaks, game and well aged cheese.Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 12 months in French oak plus another two years of bottle ageing. Beautiful, bright color - deep cherry red with the merest hint of ageing. The aromas of medium intensity show the ripe plum fruit and spicy overtones of the Cabernet. The taste is rich, tasty, fruity and quite complex. Good balance.
Rated as either as a tie for top honors, or a close second to the Raimat, Val de Vos is a superb example of the Spanish Cabs. Antonio says, "slightly astringent, with enough acidity to assure long life. In all, a very well made wine." For Abraham, "Splendid palate, meaty, ample, fruity, lactic undertones, very complex. Most interesting."
Raimat Cabernet Sauvignon 1991
One of our first repeats, Raimat continues to be the benchmark in any Spanish Cab tasting. Here again, nearly a year later, the '91 Cab remains tops. A full-bodied wine, ready to drink and like the others, a good companion to hearty food.Made from 85% Cabernet and 15% Merlot with 18 months in oak. The color's deep, dark, and well developed. Pleasant, intense aromas of red berry fruit and quality oak. The taste is superb, a plummy, fruity mouthful - well balanced with just the right amounts of wood, acidity and alcohol. Good long finish.
An excellent wine which continues to be a "role model" for iberian Cabs. For Antonio, "A pleasant nose with red berry fruit and wood, and it keeps its promises - following with excellent palate, maintaining that balance shown in the nose. A wine to drink now." Abraham says, "Perfect alcohol/acid/wood balance. Lasting finish, and possibly the most representative of the Cabernet variety. Magnificent!"
La Mancha Reds Tasted 25 July 1996
With the August vacations just around the corner, this will be our last tasting session 'til September. To close out this phase of "Catas with Abraham", we've chosen three different vintages of red wine from Bodegas Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza (Pozoamargo, Cuenca) - all of which carry the D.O. la Mancha seal.
Casa Gualda Cencibel 95
This is a young, fruity and attractively priced red wine. A good everyday wine, it goes well with many dishes: pasta, salads, casseroles and lighter cheeses.Made from the native Cencibel grape with "a bit of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon" (and perhaps a touch of white grape as well). The color is cherry red, but rather transparent. The nose is fruity with hints of yeast and pottery (from the clay containers once typical of the area). The taste is smooth, fresh and with the same slightly "pottery" tones.
Abraham says, "It's surprisingly transparent, but still fresh, and with no hints of oxidation. Pleasant aromas of yeast, clean, refreshing and easy. Very much representative of the areas possibilities". Antonio comments, "Good old La Mancha aromas - that is to say a mix containing white grapes and the pottery sensation of the "tinajas" (clay vessels). An excellent price-quality ratio".
Casa Gualda Crianza 94
Here's a different sort of wine at a very good price. It's got body, oak ageing and is just the thing for heavier sorts of food: red meats, pungent stews, game or a potent cheese.Made from 60% Cencibel and 40% Cabernet with 9 months in french and american oak. The color is deep bright dark ruby red. The aroma's of medium intensity and shows red berry fruit and spice. The taste is ample, balanced and loaded with cinnamon spice.
Probably the best overall wine of this session. Abraham, "Interestingly enough, it's a more polished product than the '93. A wine that incorporates subtleties unthinkable in this area just a decade ago". Antonio says, "It opens very well in your mouth. It's full of the spicy notes of quality wood. Balanced. A very good wine".
Casa Gualda Crianza 93
A tasty, full-bodied wine which also carries a most attractive pricetag. Another good bet for heavier dishes like stews, red meat or a good powerful cheese.Made from 50% Cencibel and 50% Cabernet, aged in american and french oak. A good deep dark ruby red color. The nose shows fruit, spice and wood. The taste is full and lasting with a mix of fruit, spice and new oak. Abraham comments, "Beautiful color, well put together and finished. Nice aromas of ageing. And a noticable, pleasant astringincy, with we suspect is enhanced by the noble and still young Cabernet. Just right to drink now". Antonio says, "The nose has lots of new wood. The color is great. The oak taste persists, and in fact ovecomes the wine's structure. The nose is much better than the taste".
Spanish Bubbly Tasted 4 July 1996
This is the first time cava has been on our tasting table at Viridiana. Cava leads the wine export statistics for Spain, so we've certainly been remiss in including them in earlier sessions. The four cavas selected represent the best of three different bodegas from the Freixenet group.
Freixenet Vintage 1991, Brut Nature
Made from Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada grapes, this one is certainly an excellent cava for the money. It held it's own against much more expensive competition. It is, as Antonio states, a cava "to be consumed now".Golden straw color, bright with metallic highlights. The aroma is a well joined mix of fruit, vegetal (fresh hay) and floral notes. The bubbles are fine and elegant. The taste is clean, dry, and well balanced.
An excellent cava, as Abraham describes it, "Dry and damp aromas all at the same time, like a field in July". Antonio liked the acid balance and, "Aromas of fresh bread and fruit very nicely put together".
Dos Lustros Brut Nature
Classified as "reserva" Dos Lustros is made from 40% Macabeo, 20% Xarel-lo and 40% Parellada from the harvest of 1992.Pale straw color, bright with silvery tones. "Pleasant aromas of yeast, a touch of lychee and anise." [Abraham] The bubble structure is fine, elegant and lasting. The taste is delicate with a barely perceptable touch of wood ageing.
An outstanding cava. Delightful bubbles, complex aroma and a structure that for Antonio, "points to a good, long future".
Freixenet Reserva Real
First produced to commemorate a visit to the winery by the King and Queen of Spain in 1987, Reserva Real is made from the classic Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada grapes - plus a touch of Chardonnay. The base wine is primarily from the 1990 harvest.Bright, golden color with greenish tones. "An explosion of golden delicious apple under a veil of yeast". [Abraham] The bubbles are very fine, and long lasting. The taste is complex, with hints of wood ageing and very persistent.
If we had to pick an absoulute winner on the day, this was probably it. Antonio describes it as "an extremely well made cava". Abraham said, the bubbles are "unbeatable" and found the cava to be "outstanding, certainly one of the best available".
Brut Reserva Heredad
Classified as "reserva", Reserva Heredad is made from 2/3 Macabeo and 1/3 Parellada grapes and packaged in a rather different decanter-like bottle.Pale straw color. Fine, lasting bubbles. Aromas of green apple and kiwi. The taste is clean and respectable, with a slightly acid finish.
Another good cava, not quite up to the level of the Reserva Real - which is perhaps an unfair comparison. Abraham decribed it as "less elegant, but clean and respectable." Antonio defined it as being "slightly out of balance and not as persistent", he also suggested we were mistaken in the order of the tasting and probably should have tasted Heredad ahead of Reserva Real.
Viridiana is certainly one of Madrid's great restaurants. Abraham García's food is innovative, varied, and based on the best of Spanish cuisine, with a modern creative fusion-style touch. For the wine lover, Viridiana is a joy - there are some 500 labels to choose from and a stock of 26,000 bottles carefully stored away!Viridiana
Juan de Mena, 14
28014 Madrid
Tel: 531-5222Note: The food is great, but it's not cheap [VISA and AMEX].
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